Auto Chlor Replacement Pool Chlorinator Cells – Australia

Replacing your Auto Chlor chlorinator cell is necessary when it stops producing chlorine, usually after 3–7 years of use, due to titanium plate erosion. Signs include low output, “check salt” alerts, or green pool water. Replacing it ensures proper sanitation and prevents, unexpected system failure.

Key Reasons to Replace Your Auto Chlor Cell:

• End of Life (Wear and Tear): Like tyres, salt cells have a limited lifespan (approx. 5 years) and stop creating chlorine efficiently.
• Failed Production (Low Output): The cell’s metal plates erode or become coated with excess calcium, stopping the conversion of salt to chlorine, resulting in green water.
• Constant Error Alerts: You may see “low salt” or “clean cell” lights flashing consistently even when salt levels are balanced.
• Visual Damage: Physical signs like bent or deteriorating plates inside the cell signify it needs to be replaced.
• Avoid Higher Costs: A faulty cell can strain the entire chlorinator unit, potentially causing, more expensive repairs to the controller box.

For replacement options, check out our compatible generic pool chlorinator cells for Auto Chlor below. Available now and with free shipping provided by Best Pool Chlorinators.

Choosing the right Auto Chlor (AIS) chlorinator cell requires matching the cell’s chlorine output to your pool volume, ensuring compatibility with your current power supply, and selecting between self-cleaning and standard models.

Here is a guide to selecting the correct replacement cell.

1. Identify Your Current Model (The Most Critical Step)

The simplest way to choose the right cell is to replace it with the same model, as the cell must match the existing controller/power supply.

• Locate the Model Number: Look on the side of your current cell housing or on the main power supply box. Common series include RP (Reverse Polarity/Self-Cleaning) or AC (Standard).
• Identify the Size/Number: The number indicates the grams of chlorine produced per hour (e.g., RP25 = 25 grams/hour).
• Check the Connector Type: Note if it uses a “bayonet” (screw-on) cap or a “push-on” connector.

2. Determine Required Chlorine Output (Sizing)

If you are replacing the entire system or upgrading, size the cell based on your pool’s total water volume in litres.

• Rule of Thumb: A general rule is to have a cell that produces at least 20 grams of chlorine gas per 10,000 litres of pool water per day.
• Example Calculation: For a \\(65,000\\) litre pool:
  • \\(65,000 \\div 10,000 = 6.5\\)
  • \\(6.5 \\times 20\\text{g} = 130\\text{g}\\) total required per day.
  • If running for 6 hours, you need \\(\\frac{130}{6} \\approx. 21.6\\) grams/hour capacity (e.g., a 25g/h cell).
• Oversize for Safety: It is highly recommended to choose a cell slightly larger than required (e.g., a 35g/h cell for a 30g/h requirement) to handle high temperatures or heavy bather loads without overworking the system.

3. Choose Between RP (Self-Cleaning) and AC (Standard)

AutoChlor cells come in two main types:

• RP Series (Reverse Polarity): These are self-cleaning. The system automatically reverses the polarity of the cell plates, cleaning calcium buildup off the electrodes. This requires less manual maintenance.
• AC Series (Standard): These are usually cheaper upfront but require manual cleaning in an acid bath periodically to remove scale.

4. Match Plate Count and Length

Check the number of plates and their length if buying a generic replacement, as higher output models require more or longer plates.

• RP7: 5 plates, 100mm long (7g/hr)
• RP15/AC15: 7 plates, 146mm long (15g/hr)
• RP20/AC20: 7 plates, 120mm long (20g/hr)
• RP25/AC25: 7 plates, 146mm long (25g/hr)
• RP35/AC35: 7 plates, 200mm long (35g/hr)
• RP50/AC50: 2×7 plates, 275mm long (50g/hr)

Summary Checklist

Disclaimer: Check compatibility with your specific controller (e.g., “K-Chlor” is often compatible with AutoChlor).

***The below cells are made using Genuine USA sourced high quality titanium plate, not cheap, inferior substitute material.***
They come with a 2 Year Domestic Warranty and 1 Year Commercial Warranty.

Choose Between RP (Self-Cleaning) and AC (Standard)

AutoChlor cells come in two main types:

• RP Series (Reverse Polarity): These are self-cleaning. The system automatically reverses the polarity of the cell plates, cleaning calcium buildup off the electrodes. This requires less manual maintenance.
• AC Series (Standard): These are usually cheaper upfront but require manual cleaning in an acid bath periodically to remove scale.

Match Plate Count and Length

Check the number of plates and their length if buying a generic replacement, as higher output models require more or longer plates.

• RP7: 5 plates, 100mm long (7g/hr)
• RP15/AC15: 7 plates, 146mm long (15g/hr)
• RP20/AC20: 7 plates, 120mm long (20g/hr)
• RP25/AC25: 7 plates, 146mm long (25g/hr)
• RP35/AC35: 7 plates, 200mm long (35g/hr)
• RP50/AC50: 2×7 plates, 275mm long (50g/hr)

Replacing your Auto Chlor chlorinator cell is necessary when it stops producing chlorine, usually after 3–7 years of use, due to titanium plate erosion. Signs include low output, “check salt” alerts, or green pool water. Replacing it ensures proper sanitation and prevents, unexpected system failure.

Replacing an Auto Chlor salt cell involves turning off the power, releasing pressure, disconnecting the old cell’s locking collar and cables, and inserting the new cell. It is a plug-and-play process that requires no cutting or gluing, with the new cell secured by hand tightening the housing, followed by connecting the wiring.

Installation Steps:

• Turn Off Power: Turn off the pool pump and the salt chlorinator unit for safety.
• Release Pressure: Open the air relief valve on the filter to release pressure in the system.
• Remove Old Cell: Unscrew the locking collar on the cell housing and unplug the cable leading from the controller to the cell. Pull out the old cell.
• Install New Cell: Slot the new replacement cell directly into the existing housing. Ensure it is oriented properly.
• Secure Housing: Screw the locking collar back on, ensuring it is tightened securely by hand to prevent leaks.
• Reconnect Electrical: Connect the cables to the new cell, ensuring they are secure.
• Verify Operation: Turn the pump back on and check for leaks. Check the controller to verify the new cell is generating chlorine.

Important Notes:

• Lubrication: Use a pool-grade lubricant on the cell gaskets to prevent leaks.
• Compatibility: Ensure the replacement cell is compatible with your Auto Chlor series (e.g., AC series or RP series).